Alanya · DPF · OPF · Chip tuning
We clean your diesel (DPF) and petrol (OPF) particulate filters with professional methods in our own machine. Power often comes back and fuel consumption goes down.
- 1 hourProfessional filter cleaning
- 99%Filter cleanliness, documented
- TÜV approvedTested in Germany, German quality
- 12 monthsWarranty
Illustration: clogged and clean filter channels.
01 / Services
What we do
DPF / OPF Cleaning
We deep-clean clogged diesel and petrol particulate filters in our specialised machine. Try cleaning before you buy a new filter.
- Diesel (DPF) and petrol (OPF)
- In just 1 hour
- Experienced team, reliable service
Chip tuning and engine optimisation
Engine software tuned specifically for your vehicle. Message us for details.
- Stage 1
- Eco tuning
- Advice beforehand, tuned to your vehicle
Cleaner driving
Improves engine performance and lowers fuel consumption.
Eco-conscious
Lower emissions for a cleaner future.
Expert team
Reliable, guaranteed cleaning by our experienced team.
Particulate filter (DPF/OPF) and catalytic converter cleaning, with warranty, for:
- Cars
- Trucks
- Buses
- Construction machinery
02 / Symptoms
Your filter may be clogged
If any of these sound familiar, bring your car in.
Warning lights you will know
- Engine warning lightLights up or flashes amber on the dashboard. There are many possible causes, including a clogged filter.
- Particulate filter lightShows that the filter is full or regeneration is not working. If it stays on, have it checked soon.
03 / Know-how
How does a particulate filter work, and why does it clog?
- 01
The filter traps soot
In diesel engines (DPF) and direct-injection petrol engines (OPF), the filter traps soot particles in its honeycomb structure. At regular intervals the vehicle burns the soot off at high temperature (regeneration).
- 02
Ash does not burn
Ash from oil additives cannot be burned off and stays in the filter. Over time the channels narrow and exhaust back pressure rises.
- 03
Short trips disrupt regeneration
On short trips at low revs the filter does not get hot enough and the soot does not burn. The result: power loss, higher consumption, a warning light.
Clean or replace?
Cleaning works when …
… the ceramic substrate is intact. Then the blockage can usually be removed by cleaning and the original filter stays in the car.
Cleaning is not possible when …
… the ceramic is cracked, melted or broken. Then the filter has to be replaced.
If the filter keeps clogging, the cause is often elsewhere (see the checklist below).
Clean instead of replace
Why cleaning is often the better choice
If the filter no longer burns itself clean, waiting gets expensive.
The filter no longer burns itself clean
When it is heavily clogged, regeneration can no longer run properly. If the problem continues, the ceramic in the filter can crack or even melt from the high temperatures. After that, not even a cleaning helps.
A new filter costs many times more
Depending on the vehicle, a new part is much more expensive than a cleaning. Fitting and removal come on top, and often further follow-up costs.
Cleaning from €80
A professional cleaning with measurements before and after usually costs only a fraction. We give you the exact price for your vehicle on WhatsApp.
Guide price, depending on vehicle and condition.
04 / Difference
Why remove it and clean it in the machine?
Additives in the tank or flushing the filter while it is still fitted sound convenient, but they miss the real problem: ash and deeply embedded soot.
Additives and pour-in cleaners
- Can help soot burn off more easily.
- Ash does not burn and hardly dissolves, so it stays in the filter.
- The effect depends on driving and temperature, and no result is measured.
Flushing or foaming while fitted
- The liquid may not reach every channel evenly.
- Loosened dirt and chemicals can partly stay in the exhaust system.
- Sensors and catalyst come into contact with the chemicals.
- You cannot see inside the filter, so the result is hard to verify.
Removal and cleaning in the machine
- Once removed, the filter is accessible from both sides.
- Cleaning runs with water, pressure and air in a closed cabinet.
- Its condition can be checked before and after cleaning.
- Sensors and catalyst are left untouched.
Additives can be useful as prevention, but they usually will not get a heavily clogged filter clean.
How the filter is built, and how we clean it
A particulate filter is not a simple pipe with the exhaust flowing straight through. It is a wall-flow filter with many narrow, winding chambers. That is why the direction matters when cleaning.
- Exhaust gas
- Gas through the wall
- Plug
- Soot / ash
- 1Channels blocked alternatelyEach channel is plugged at one end: some at the back (inlet channels), others at the front (outlet channels). The exhaust cannot go straight through.
- 2Gas must pass through the wallThe exhaust is forced through the porous ceramic wall into the neighbouring channel. That wall is the actual filter.
- 3Soot and ash stay in the inlet channelSoot can partly burn off during operation. Ash, mostly from engine oil additives, cannot. It stays in the inlet channels and clogs the filter over time.
If the filter is cleaned while fitted, the flow can push the dirt even deeper into the winding chambers in the driving direction.
With the filter removed, we flush from the outlet towards the inlet, against the driving direction. That flushes the dirt out where it came in.
What about burning it out or compressed air?
Some providers burn out the removed filter or blow it out with compressed air. That looks cheaper at first, but it carries risks.
Burning out the removed filter
Burning out produces very high temperatures and large temperature differences. The ceramic can crack or melt and the coating can be damaged. Ash does not burn and stays in the filter.
Blowing out with compressed air
Compressed air mainly moves loose dirt and can shift or compact it in the winding chambers. Stuck-on ash often stays behind. There is usually no measurement before and after.
The follow-up costs
The effect often lasts only a short time. The filter clogs again sooner, the warning light comes back, and in the worst case the filter is damaged and has to be replaced anyway. Then you have paid twice.
05 / Process
A clean filter in 6 steps
- 1
Inspect
The filter is removed and its condition is examined.
First the filter is removed and inspected inside and out. We see how heavily it is loaded with soot and ash and whether it is mechanically damaged, for example cracked. That way it is clear beforehand whether a cleaning is worthwhile.
- 2
Measure
Exhaust back pressure and flow are measured before cleaning.
Before cleaning we measure exhaust back pressure and flow. These starting values show how clogged the filter is and serve as the comparison later.
- 3
Cleaning phase 1
The filter is cleaned in the closed cabinet in the first phase.
The filter goes into our closed cleaning cabin. There it is treated with water, pressure and air to loosen soot and loose deposits and rinse them out.
- 4
Cleaning phase 2
In the second phase the rinse water runs increasingly clear.
In the second phase the filter is rinsed again. The rinse water becomes increasingly clear, a sign that less and less residue is coming out of the channels.
- 5
Measure again
The measurement is repeated after cleaning.
After cleaning we measure back pressure and flow once more, so the condition can be compared directly with the starting values.
- 6
Report
Before and after values (mbar and m³/h) are recorded in a report.
We record all values before and after (in mbar and m³/h) in writing in the report. That makes the result traceable.
Illustration: clogged and clean filter channels.
06 / Our machine
DPF-1850
Developed in-house by Elite Company and built around a German process: enclosed glove cabinet, pressure gauges and touch control panel.
- Enclosed cleaning cabinet with glove ports
- High-pressure and air-pressure gauges
- Touch panel and printout
German process, German quality
Every filter is handled carefully using our in-house German process: inspect, clean, verify.
07 / Cause
The cause may be elsewhere
To keep the filter from clogging again, these points should be checked too:
DPF differential pressure sensor
Measures the pressure before and after the filter. If it reads wrong, the control unit misjudges the loading.
Exhaust temperature sensors
They control regeneration. Faulty readings stop the filter from burning off properly.
Engine oil and oil filter (low-SAPS)
The wrong oil creates more ash and the filter clogs faster. Low-SAPS oil is required.
Injectors
Leaking or coked injectors create more soot than the filter can handle.
EGR system
A dirty EGR valve disturbs combustion and raises the soot level.
Turbo and air system
Oil loss or lack of air causes incomplete combustion and more residue.
Oxidation catalyst (DOC)
Heats the exhaust gas for regeneration. If it is defective, regeneration fails.
Software and adaptation
Regeneration strategy and loading values must match the cleaning and are adjusted if needed.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions about DPF and OPF cleaning
What are a DPF and an OPF?
The diesel particulate filter (DPF) traps soot from diesel exhaust, and the petrol particulate filter (OPF) does the same on petrol engines. Over time soot and ash build up in the filter and clog it.
How do I know my filter is clogged?
Typical signs are a lit engine warning light, loss of power or limp mode, higher fuel consumption, and frequent regeneration with smell or smoke.
How long does the cleaning take?
The cleaning takes about one hour.
How does the cleaning work?
We clean in two phases with water, pressure and air in our own machine. We measure the filter before and after and record the values in a report.
Why not just pour in an additive or cleaner?
Additives and flushes mainly act on soot. The ash that collects in the filter over the years usually stays behind. A thorough cleaning with water, pressure and air removes these deposits too.
Is there a warranty?
Yes, we give a 12-month warranty on the cleaning.
Which vehicles do you clean?
Cars, trucks, buses and construction machinery with a DPF or OPF.
Why does my filter keep clogging?
Then the cause is often not the filter itself but, for example, sensors, engine oil, injectors, the EGR system or software. The checklist above shows what we go through with you.
How do I get an appointment?
Message us on WhatsApp or call. Tell us the make, model and symptom and we will get back to you right away.
08 / Contact
Bring your car in or message us
Tell us the make, model and symptom and we'll get back to you right away.